the primer directive

We've been hearing the benefits of face primer for years- the make foundation go on smoother, and some formulas are even meant to protect skin from environmental damage- from sun rays to pollutants.  But between makeup and sunscreen, who really needs yet another layer of gunk on the face?

Enter Neutrogena Fresh Cooling Sunblock Gel SPF 30 and 45.  I don't particularly care for the stinging, cooling sensation created by the alcohol content in this.  However, the silicone texture is just like the renowned Smashbox Photo Finish primer at a fraction of the cost and works as two products in one.  When used with foundation, both of these products do wonders work kind of like wall putty to smooth over large pores and gives a soft airbrushed finish.  And with all the studies about the damage sun exposure causes, how can you argue with high SPF?  Smashbox only offers a version with SPF 15 at $42 for .98 oz.  I got my 4 oz tube at Target last summer for about $9, and with daily use on my face I've still got tons of product left.  For best results, don't rub this stuff in- gently smooth it over skin to create a smooth canvas for the rest of your makeup.

Spring Runway Report 08

It's quite early to be thinking about spring, especially when the air is just turning cold, but Spring Fashion Week is under full swing in New York- check out www.style.com for a great peek at the clothes. My favorite so far is Betsey Johson's ready to wear inspired by prom. Clicking on the backstage/front row photo gallery gives great close-ups of the models' makeup, makeup artists like Dick Page at work, and sometimes a surprising celeb snapshot from the front row.



Makeup-wise, the biggest look for spring is quite bare- flawless glowy skin, noblush, bare eyes often without mascara, and soft shell pink lips. Zac Posen's interpretation (left) was the cleanest, a very angelic interpretation, and Marc by Marc Jacobs (right) did a brilliant metallic nude take on the smoky cat eye- brilliant for going out at night.

Product recommendations-

Skin- Don't pile on the foundation, whatever you do. The skin is really more about applying products correctly and letting your skin show through as much as possible. Definitely wash your face and apply moisturizer a couple minutes before applying makeup to get the smoothest application. I recomend gently exfoliating with a warm wash cloth. Using a foundation primer like Smashbox Photo Finish is key to making your skin a smooth canvas to work on. Use a good, thick concealer like Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage only on any blemishes, then use a damp sponge (keeps foundation from being absorbed and sheers it out a little) to apply a medium coverage foundation only if you need it, giving careful attention to smooth the jaw and hairline. Touch up blemishes again if needed, blending concealer into the foundation. The look isn't totally matte, so don't use a powder like MAC Blot unless you're very oily like I am. Buff a subtle light reflecting powder over your face using a big fluffly brush (I like Sephora's Bronzer Brush). Two good powders: Laura mercier Loose Setting Powder and LORAC Perfectly Lit.

Eyes- Mix a very small drop of liquid luminizer with foundation and smooth on eyes, or buff a very subtly pearly eyeshadow that matches your skin tone on top after smoothing on foundation (check out Bobbi Brown). The idea is to make your eyelid look perfect and subtly reflect light without looking obviously sparkly. Curl lashes and slick on a clear mascara to define lashes and give some hold. For night: use a brush or your fingers to slick on a metallic nude shadow in a traditional smoky shape or in a cat eye for extra drama. New colors will certainly be released by spring, but check out MAC Paints and Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Cream Eyeshadow- the best for oily lids.

Lips- The must-have shade for anyone with rosy lips is NARS Chelsea Girls Lip Lacquer. Smudge on a very very small ammount (seriously, a little goes a long way- you will barely need to press your finger into the product). Wait about two minutes and the product will beautifully smooth out, giving you perfect shell pink lips.

For tips on some other fall looks, including the gloriously updated Bond Girl look, check out Kristin's blog at www.beautyaddict.blogspot.com

Get the Look: "Gray's Anatomy"

Although I'm by no means an avid watcher of "Gray's Anatomy," I've been a huge fan of the makeup used on the three lead female characters- they have the epitome of that perfect "no-makeup" natural glow that I strive to recreate. Until recently I wasn't quite sure how to replicate the look, but after stumbling upon a drugstore treasure and watching the season finale (um, cliffhangers much?) I think I've got the key basics down.

LIPS- The girls lips are slightly glossed with just a hint of peachy pink color that looks fresh but utterly natural. Neutrogena MoistureShine tinted lip balm in Glow is the best thing I've found to mimic the color- it's a shiny peach with a touch of pink, beige, and golden shimmer that lets your natural lip color show through enough so that the color doesn't look fake. The formula is similar to Vincent Longo's Baby Balm line in slickness and the SPF 20 is a huge bonus for summer (the shade range is limited, but this is a really great product and worth checking out). If your lips are naturally very rosy, you can neutralize them a bit further with either a pale nude lip liner like Stila Glaze Liner in Nude or a thin layer of an opaque pale nude gloss or lipstick like NARS Lip Lacquer in Chelsea Girls. The idea here isn't really to change your lip color, but rather to mimic the nude peachy pink glow while working with your natural lip tone, so don't coat your lips too much or it will spoil the effect.

SKIN- Keep things fresh and clean- cover any spots or under eye circles with concealer and go light on foundation but cover any redness. Pat over any concealer or foundation that you put on very lightly with a damp cosmetic sponge to blend it all into your skin. The girls don't wear noticeable blush or bronzer, but dusting a little glowy highlighter on your cheeks will again help to mimic their natural glow. There are tons of great highlighters out there, but choose on that's very finely milled (read: not glittery) in the peach to pink range- whatever is most flattering on your skin. I like Bobbi Brown Shimmer Bricks in Rose and Apricot, they reflect light in an almost dewy way and don't show up as noticeable sparkle even on those of us with large pores while providing a hint of color. Sweep it on the tops of cheekbones from the apple of the cheek towards the temple. If you want a little more dewiness in the look, use a pearly liquid highlighter like Stila All Over Shimmer Liquid Luminizer.

EYES- If lids are oily prep them with a dab of Urban Decay Primer Potion, then smooth on a light coat of foundation regardless. The idea is to even out the skin of the eyelid and cover up darkness and tiny veins. If you like, sweep on a subtly pearly eyeshadow similar to your skin color (probably in the champagne to cocoa range), but don't use anything too shimmery or frosty- it's texture overkill considering lips and cheeks. Bobbi Brown, Stila, and Tarte are great brands to look at (I like Tarte's Champagne Brunch). If you feel naked without eyeliner, use a damp liner brush to push a blackened brown eyeshadow like Stila Espresso (shown center) into the lash line, which defines the eyes without making an obvious line. Follow with a brown black or soft black waterproof mascara on curled lashes.

Got Shine?

Don't get me wrong, I love glossy lips and dewy cheeks. But the oil slick known as my forehead? Yeah, not so much. Since puberty I've tried a number of powders and primers to keep the oilies at bay, but MAC Blot is definitely the standout.

But before getting into the merits of Blot, there isn't enough powder in the world if you don't have a good skincare routine to begin with. I can't tell you how many women I know think they have a serious oil problem but don't use any moisturizer or don't wash their faces on a regular basis. Beauty magazines tend to run regular articles about basic skincare, so if you don't have a routine established yet I suggest going to the library and flipping through some old issues of Allure. Personally, my oiliness has greatly imroved since I've simplified my routine down to a gentle cream cleanser twice a day, a light moisturizer with seaweed extract- The Body Shop's Seaweed Mattifying Day Cream is beloved by myself and my BFF, the Olay at home microderm kit once a week, and the occasional mud mask or serum application when I'm stressed. I've found that consistent daily face washing and moisturizing and a weekly gentle but deep exfoliation goes a long way in improving oiliness.

Although this regimen has drastically improved my skin, I do rely on MAC Blot powder to keep my face looking polished throughout the day. I usually apply with a fluffy brush in the morning, and once again before going out at night and my face stays shine free without looking cakey or ashy. I've used it with and without foundation and it seems to work equally well, although I would recommend gently pressing your face with a tissue after foundation and before Blot; this is a great trick to gently lift excess moisture out of the foundation while leaving the pigment behind so the face stays matte longer throughout the day. If you use powder foundation but still get oily, using Blot underneath other powders is also pretty effective at controlling oil. One piece advice on shade selection- unless you're gothic white, pale ladies should go for Medium, Light is a little too chalky.

If you're not too oily and find Blot a bit on the dry side, Stila Sheer Pressed Powder is great for achieving a polished look but couldn't quite stand up to my oily skin. If you love powder but have normal to dry skin, Laura Mercier Loose Setting Powder gives an amazing soft focus glow- I love it, but my oily skin eats through it in a couple hours.