spring cleaning!

Even if you don't give your living space the thorough once-over with a dust rag and vacuum the way our grandparents used to, take a minute to give your makeup brushes a good wash. Brushes pick up heinous amounts of bacteria from the face, which can exacerbate acne, rosacea, and cause irritation. There's loads of brush cleaning products out there, but I've used gentle antibacterial hand soap for years without damaging my brushes.

Alternatively, if your brushes are in poor condition or if you don't own anything besides the freebies companies hand out, check out this set of antibacterial brushes from Sephora. The $60 price tag is reasonable for a set of seven brushes and your skin will thank you.

the primer directive

We've been hearing the benefits of face primer for years- the make foundation go on smoother, and some formulas are even meant to protect skin from environmental damage- from sun rays to pollutants.  But between makeup and sunscreen, who really needs yet another layer of gunk on the face?

Enter Neutrogena Fresh Cooling Sunblock Gel SPF 30 and 45.  I don't particularly care for the stinging, cooling sensation created by the alcohol content in this.  However, the silicone texture is just like the renowned Smashbox Photo Finish primer at a fraction of the cost and works as two products in one.  When used with foundation, both of these products do wonders work kind of like wall putty to smooth over large pores and gives a soft airbrushed finish.  And with all the studies about the damage sun exposure causes, how can you argue with high SPF?  Smashbox only offers a version with SPF 15 at $42 for .98 oz.  I got my 4 oz tube at Target last summer for about $9, and with daily use on my face I've still got tons of product left.  For best results, don't rub this stuff in- gently smooth it over skin to create a smooth canvas for the rest of your makeup.

wind burn much?

It was a mild, snowy 20ish degrees today (hah) but the wind made things less than fun for those of us trudging up and down the SU hill today.  Fortunately I had a sample of Patricia Wexler M.D.'s MMPi-20 Skin Regenerating Serum handy, courtesy of Bath & Body Works.This stuff is insanely expensive even on sale online for $55/3.4 oz, but B&BW seems to like giving out the .5 oz sample- a while back there was a promotion in the back of Lucky and recently they handed out vouchers with any purchase.  I've been using it regularly on my forehead and smile lines and I'm not sure if I really see a difference, but it did a good number on my cheeks and nose.  The soft (hot pink!) silicone texture, similar to the renowned Smashbox Photo Finish Primer, melted into my skin and soothed on contact without making my face a greasy mess.  I don't think I would shell out the cash for this, but if you have one of these samples floating around or have the chance to pick one up, it's a worthy winter skin saver.

serious splurge alert!

I know a lot of people swear you get what you pay for when it comes to skincare, but I’m still a bit in shock that I paid $60 for Dr. Weil for Origins Plantidote Mega-Mushroom Face Cream. When it came out over a year ago I was more skeptical of the pseudo-sciency description that claimed this cream makes your skin go into hibernation like a plant bulb, and I thought the price tag was insane. But Kristen over at The Beauty Addict swears by this stuff for stressed out skin, which my skin always is let alone when it’s 7 degrees outside with fierce wind. I was out of my usual Hope in a Jar anyway, so I thought I’d take the opportunity to step outside my comfort zone and see if this cream is really all that.Unfortunately for my wallet, this stuff definitely rocks. I’ve been using it for a week and I can honestly say my skin is never this soft between weekly exfoliation. My pores seem less congested, my cheeks lack any trace of redness, and there’s nary a blemish lurking below the surface. If you suffer from stress or hormone related skin problems, this cream’s anti-inflammatory ingredients do wonders. Plus, it moisturizes like a dream- it goes on buttery but absorbs nicely and leaves a silky, almost silicony finish that makes foundation glide on beautifully. Yes it’s $60, which I do think is ridiculous, but it’s an investment worth considering if you’re sick of stress and winter ravaging your skin.

Dream Cream

I've spent the last three weeks studying like a rockstar instead of partying like one and it's been rough. About half way through writing an epic research paper last week my eyes had just about give up from me- achy from hours on the computer, and puffy from five hours of sleep a night.

Good thing my research took me to the Clinique counter at Lord & Taylor during free gift with purchase time! When I purchased a new tube of Clarifying Makeup foundation I received a mini jar of All About Eyes- the most fantastic item in my stress-combating arsenal to date.

I've had bad luck with every anti-aging eye cream I've tried, they all break me out. I took a chance on this one because it has caffeine to reduce puffiness and my puffiness was getting a little out of control. The sales associate recommended keeping this in the fridge, and I have to admit this dish is best served cold- its silky texture is instantly soothing. It has a non-greasy drydown to boot, which doesn't interfere with eye makeup while still giving skin some moisture. This is a far superior product to MAC's Fast Response Eye Cream, which packs a more serious caffeine content but is drying with daily use. I've been able to use All About Eyes sometimes four times a day for the past two weeks with no dryness, no breakout, no irritation, and no signs of bags under my eyes. Paired with soothing eye drops, mascara, and a bit of MAC's Luna cream color base on my browbone and my eyes look fresh and well rested. It seems a bit overpriced at $27.50 for a half ounce, but it only takes a small dab per eye for great results. The only problem is getting your friends to believe that you only got two hours of sleep.

No more excuses!

Skincare is hard to maintain on week-ends; late nights out with friends, sleepovers, frantic hustles to the gym to make up for all the bar food that ended up in front of you. Even if you have the best intentions, as the weather gets colder (and especially if you live in an appartment building) how long can you really stand in front of a sink at 3 in the morning waiting for the tap water to warm up?

When summer term started I invested in a pack of Target brand Make-Up Remover Cleansing Towelettes and after two months use I have found these to be a lifesaver. Sold in a pack of 30, these little wonders boast tea antioxidant complex and contain chamomile and vitamin E- all of which will sooth irritation and combat the damages caused by all those week-end late night sins. As a bonus I've found that I don't need any moisturizer after these, so they're perfect to keep bedside- not washing your face because you forgot and you're already in bed is no longer an excuse! I scanned the ingredients list and while these do contain alcohol- a general deal breaker for quality skincare- it hasn't caused me any problems and my skin is definitely on the sensitive/reactive side. It shouldn't be a problem unless you get in the habit of using these every day, which I don't recommend.

These are also perfect for tossing in your bag for after the gym or freshening up on a hot day- they're soothing and refreshing but don't make skin feel stripped and they also provide just enough moisture without feeling heavy.

There's nothing like an intense week of grad school followed by a stiff martini to give a girl the impulse buy itch. It's especially bad for me this week as my subscription to Lucky Magazine finally kicked in and I received both the July and August issues yesterday.

I found myself unusually attracted to August's "Treatment" spread in the beauty section, which often gives me ideas for DIY spa treatments but rarely gives me product lust. This month's article "oils-for oily skin" is just what it sounds like, a run-down on the benefits of oils to treat oily skin and breakouts. About six months ago I discovered the benefit of avoiding oil-free sodium-laureth-sulfate free moisturizer and my acne-prone skin is much calmer for it, but I have yet to put anything on a blemish oilier than neosporine. La Fleur Organique's Blemish Rescue, mentioned as an at-home spot treatment in the article, sounds promising from walgreens.com's description, but in a rush of willpower I've decided to wait a week before buying to make sure this fixation isn't just a short-term crush.

In the meantime, a stroke of inspiration and a little internet ingredient research has prompted me to try a little Sunny Brae Body Works Nail Oil, available at www.walgreens.com, on a healing spot. While it lacks the disinfecting antibacterial ingredients of some of the oils mentioned in the article, the ingredients are skin friendly and beneficial for healing tissue- rice bran oil, jojoba oil, neem oil, and vitamin E are reasonably noncommedogenic for oils and lavender oil, chamomile oil, and rosemary extract are delightfully soothing. And since that comprises the entire ingredients list, there's very little to react badly to. I put a small drop on a healing blemish last night and it's healing beautifully with less dryness and flaking than usual. I wouldn't recommend this for use on pores that are still clogged but spots that just need to heal will benefit from this.

Their website seems to be down right now (sorry- that's not very helpful) but if you can find this oil I highly recommend it- both as a nail treatment and as a spot healing aid. There are tons of nail oils out there though, just look for ones with lightweight oils and anti-inflammatory ingredients such as the ones mentioned above, or invest in a vial of La Fleur Organique's- I'm sure I will in the near future.

Whew!

The last month has been absolutely ridiculous between sorority obligations, finishing my thesis, and taking a quick trip to New York to check out my grad program, and finally graduating. While I may have been a slacker in terms of posting, several beauty standouts have emerged in my stash of goods as champion stress combatants, the foremost being Philosophy's When Hope is Not Enough serum.

I first stumbled upon this serum last winter after extensive research into age prevention and antioxidant skincare ingredients. While many brands flaunt unique plant derivatives as miracle cell rejuvenators, I find a lot of products on the market frankly to be mostly hype and gimmick. This is not to say that something boasting a molecule derived from orchids that is apparently the reason for the flower's longevity won't be a lovely moisturizer, but rather that it's ridiculous to charge $360 for 1.7 oz (I'm looking at you, Guerlain). Ultimately there are only a few ingredients that have solid scientific evidence to back up them up. As the April 2007 issue of "Allure" discusses in the article "Skin Saviors", retinol- a vitamin A derivative- is proven to stimulate cell turnover and increase collagen production as do peptides- protein fragments-, and antioxidants such as vitamin C and green tea combat free radicals and protect skin from environmental damage throughout the day. There is also significant research saying that antioxidants are brilliant for reviving the skin when you're overly stressed and tired, i.e. the story of my life. Finding a reasonably priced no-frills serum with these key ingredients is more difficult than it sounds, especially one that isn't loaded with silicone which has no real benefit for skin other than making it feel nice and helping foundation glide on smoothly (if that sounds nice try Smashbox Photo Finish primer). After hours of Internet research and a big chunk of time spent investigating product consistency at Sephora, When Hope is Not Enough emerged as one of the best contenders.

The watery gel consistency is perfect for reviving tired skin in the morning or during the day, and the light herbal rosemary scent is definitely an aromatherapy perk. It seems expensive at $35 a pop, but a good friend's aunt has a point when she says a good skincare regimen now will save you thousands on surgery later. I've also found that 2-3 drops does the trick, although Philosophy recommends 6. After using this serum for about 5 months I find that I don't look as tired as I used to and when I get a minor acne flare-up it heals quicker. Not convinced? I used this religiously during my hectic and virtually sleepless trip to the east coast then had to go to a formal dance after being awake for nearly 20 hours and was told repeatedly that I looked fabulous. I recommend using When Hope Is Not Enough with a moisturizer that packs a solid retinol punch like Philosophy's Hope In a Jar.

Got Shine?

Don't get me wrong, I love glossy lips and dewy cheeks. But the oil slick known as my forehead? Yeah, not so much. Since puberty I've tried a number of powders and primers to keep the oilies at bay, but MAC Blot is definitely the standout.

But before getting into the merits of Blot, there isn't enough powder in the world if you don't have a good skincare routine to begin with. I can't tell you how many women I know think they have a serious oil problem but don't use any moisturizer or don't wash their faces on a regular basis. Beauty magazines tend to run regular articles about basic skincare, so if you don't have a routine established yet I suggest going to the library and flipping through some old issues of Allure. Personally, my oiliness has greatly imroved since I've simplified my routine down to a gentle cream cleanser twice a day, a light moisturizer with seaweed extract- The Body Shop's Seaweed Mattifying Day Cream is beloved by myself and my BFF, the Olay at home microderm kit once a week, and the occasional mud mask or serum application when I'm stressed. I've found that consistent daily face washing and moisturizing and a weekly gentle but deep exfoliation goes a long way in improving oiliness.

Although this regimen has drastically improved my skin, I do rely on MAC Blot powder to keep my face looking polished throughout the day. I usually apply with a fluffy brush in the morning, and once again before going out at night and my face stays shine free without looking cakey or ashy. I've used it with and without foundation and it seems to work equally well, although I would recommend gently pressing your face with a tissue after foundation and before Blot; this is a great trick to gently lift excess moisture out of the foundation while leaving the pigment behind so the face stays matte longer throughout the day. If you use powder foundation but still get oily, using Blot underneath other powders is also pretty effective at controlling oil. One piece advice on shade selection- unless you're gothic white, pale ladies should go for Medium, Light is a little too chalky.

If you're not too oily and find Blot a bit on the dry side, Stila Sheer Pressed Powder is great for achieving a polished look but couldn't quite stand up to my oily skin. If you love powder but have normal to dry skin, Laura Mercier Loose Setting Powder gives an amazing soft focus glow- I love it, but my oily skin eats through it in a couple hours.